3.5 out of 5 stars 

For years, I have been driving past Il Vicino, denying myself entry. Italian restaurants are off-putting to me, since they’re usually expensive and lack gluten-free options. But when I learned Il Vicino offers a gluten-free crust and a student discount, I had to give it a try.  

Il Vicino is located at 5214 N. Nevada Ave in University Village, less than five minutes from campus. They are open 11 a.m. – 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m. – 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. They offer a variety of Italian dishes, including pizza, pasta and calzones.  

Pizzas range in price from $9.95 to $16.25. They offer four desserts, priced between $4 and $7.50. Il Vicino also has a variety of beers, wines, soft drinks and specialty beverages.  

I visited Il Vicino on Saturday night around 7:30 p.m. I was surprised when I entered to find an ordering counter instead of a host. I immediately felt less intimidated about walking into an Italian place alone on a weekend.  

The cashier was patient and kind while I figured out what I wanted for my first visit. I ordered a basil lemonade ($3.50), a Molta Carne pizza ($14.95, plus $3.25 for gluten-free crust) and a tiramisu ($6.50) for dessert. After tax and tip, I paid $36.15 total.  

For a treat-myself dinner out, I didn’t think this was too expensive, especially since I usually don’t indulge in dessert. $18 for a gluten-free pizza on the regular feels steep, but I wouldn’t be opposed to spending $25 for a pizza and a beverage as a reward for self-care night.  

I was pleasantly surprised that they offered two kinds of gluten-free crust, Udi’s brand and a cauliflower option. I have never been asked to choose which crust I would enjoy more as a gluten-free girl.  

The restaurant offered open seating with a selection of tables and half-booth-half-tables. I picked a half-booth-half-table and set up my computer to work on assignments while I ate. The low amber lighting and musical selection made for a classy ambiance.  

I liked feeling like I was at a fancy restaurant, even though the restaurant was casual enough for me to study without being bombarded by talkative wait staff.  

Guests can easily watch the chefs work with the giant wood-fired pizza oven. I love being able to see into the cooking space at restaurants. It makes me trust the food more.  

First, the servers brought out the basil lemonade. It was a bit tart and heavy on the basil, lacking sweetness to cut the herby flavor. After adding some sugar, it tasted a little better, and I didn’t mind it complementing a pizza. 

Then, I received my Molta Carne, a 12-inch pizza cut into six slices, less than 10 minutes later. The server offered me fresh grated parmesan from one of those circular crank graters. I felt spoiled.  

The Molta Carne pizza was like a glorified meat-lovers, with sausage, ham, pepperoni, oregano, mushrooms, marinara and mozzarella. Allegedly, there were kalamata olives on the pizza, but I didn’t taste a single one, and those things are hard to miss.  

The mozzarella cheese was perfectly stretchy, and I loved the crispness of the cauliflower crust. The toppings were not overbearing (sometimes, meat-lovers pizzas are super salty and give me heartburn. This one did not). Each bite had a different combination of flavors, making it easy to enjoy multiple pieces without getting overpowered by a single flavor.  

I dressed the pizza up with some red pepper flakes. The table also had some spicy oil, which I tried on one slice. It warmed the pizza up, but I thought the flavor distracted from the pizza too much to add it to the rest of my slices.  

I wish the marinara sauce came through more. I like the acidity of tomato sauce on a pizza, and this one was lacking that tang. Overall, I enjoyed the pizza despite the insufficient sauce flavor, and I would order it again.  

After three slices and two bites of a fourth, one of the servers brought me a box for the rest of my pizza and the tiramisu. It was a three-inch cube of stuff I shouldn’t be eating. I also ignore my serious dairy intolerance sometimes, so needless to say, tiramisu was a great idea.  

I could have done without the dessert, especially by myself. For one, it was super sweet, and I couldn’t have finished it on my own even without the excessive dairy. It was also covered in cocoa powder and powdered sugar, so much so that I started coughing if I didn’t hold my breath while taking a bite.  

The ladyfingers were airy but rather dry, even surrounded by the mascarpone. They didn’t seem to be “soaked” in espresso and brandy as the menu suggested. The espresso flavor was overpowered by the cocoa powder, ruining the necessary bitterness to balance the sweetness of the mascarpone.  

All in all, I would definitely enjoy a take-out pizza or maybe dine in with a glass of wine on a date in the future. If you go to Il Vicino, take advantage of the student discount, ask for extra sauce and skip dessert. 

A Molta Carne pizza on cauliflower crust. Photo by Kaylie Foster.